A Roman Rhône
2018 Beaumes-de-Venise Rouge (Domaine de Durban)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
The village of Beaumes-de-Venise was originally a Roman settlement focused on its nearby mineral springs. The most famous wine from Beaumes has long been their Muscat, a heady aromatic wine that works as either an aperitif or a dessert wine. The proximity of Gigondas led growers to also try their hands at table wines, and eventually the village achieved its own appellation for reds. Durban’s reds are as sturdy and rich as its more illustrious neighbors, and this 2018 is a nicely aged delight with its herbal aromas, cherry fruit, and smooth finish. A great match with a curried lamb stew.

Madiran
2019 Madiran ‘Vieilles Vignes’ (Château Peyros)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
The small southwest French appellation of Madiran punches far above its weight. Here the Tannat grape brings a tannic intensity that makes Cabernet Sauvignon seem tame. Tempered with some Cabernet Franc and given a few years of rest in the cellar, the 2019 Peyros has transformed from a country bumpkin into a rustically elegant red poised for massively fatty winter fare. If cassoulet is on your menu, this is your wine.

Ribeira Sacra
2021 Ribeira Sacra Tinto ‘Lalama’ (Dominio do Bibei)
Sale Price $27.99 – $285.50 case of twelve
Galicia first emerged as a fine wine region with its coastal Albariño. But there was also a fantastic resource of old red vines on the inland riversides. The old vine Mencía burrowing deep into the slate soils of Ribeira Sacra delivers an intense mineral earthiness as well as crisp balance. The cool vintage 2021 from Dominio do Bibei is a beauty. This has a Burgundy-like combination of complex fruit and minerality, but with its own Spanish stamp. Have this with a brothy red bean and chorizo stew.

Alessandria
2023 Barbera d’Alba (Fratelli Alessandria)
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve
The village of Verduno is the northernmost in the Barolo zone, and it appears that a Verduno red, whether Barolo, Barbera, or Pelaverga, possesses more youthful energy than those of other Piedmontese villages. Alessandria’s 2023 Barbera captures this with its gorgeous raspberry fruit and smoky tea-like flavors. Try this with sausages and polenta.

Beefy Bourgogne
2022 Bourgogne Rouge ‘Les Barrigards’
(Edmond Cornu & Fils)
Sale Price $35.99 – $367.10 case of twelve
The RN 7 is the road that bisects Burgundy’s Cote d’Or. On one side there are the famous villages and hillside vineyards. On the other side is flat land, which if it were not in Burgundy would be relegated to other crops or cattle. But a talented grower in a good vintage can deliver the goods nonetheless. Edmond Cornu’s Les Barrigards vineyard is across the RN 7 from the village of Chorey. Planted in the 80s, its considerable vine age delivers a Pinot Noir with real presence. This is a gamey, meaty delight with dense fruit and impressive structure. The excellent 2022 vintage indeed helps, but this is homegrown Burgundy by a family with roots.

Barbaresco
2021 Barbaresco (Produttori del Barbaresco)
Sale Price $59.99 – $611.90 case of twelve
Sure, there’s the Barbaresco nobility of Gaja and Giacosa, but the humble Produttori is the financial engine of the village. This cooperative deals only in Nebbiolo and makes a village-level Barbaresco that impresses vintage after vintage. It drinks young. It ages well. It always speaks Barbaresco. The 2021 is one of their best recent efforts.