Newsletter
September 15, 2015 – October 14, 2015
Cooler and Higher
2013 Torrontes (San Huberto)
Sale Price $7.99 – $81.50 case of twelve
Cooler and higher vineyards are the key to making balanced Torrontes in Argentina. San Huberto’s 2013 is a fresh, flavorful version that has the signature floral and apricot aromatic qualities of Torrontes, along with a rich, creamy middle, and a clean finish.
Macedonian Revival
2013 Rkaciteli (Tikveš)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
The Tikveš winery in Macedonia was founded in 1885 and has miraculously survived through every Balkan altercation. Today it’s a modern operation that makes spicy, interesting wines from grapes that deserve to be better known. The 2013 Rkaciteli is a rich, dry white with a spicy and herbal bouquet, a mouth filling richness, and a deep, long finish. This is a fascinating, great value white.
Chardonnay Italian Style
2014 Chardonnay ‘Crevoglio’ (Borgo Maragliano)
Sale Price $10.99 – $112.10 case of twelve
Muscadet
2014 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine (Domaine de la Louvetrie)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Prestige White Rhone
2014 Côtes du Rhône Blanc ‘Prestige’ (Roger Perrin)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
A white Côtes du Rhône is rarely a single-variety wine. For some reason Rhône producers are grape hoarders. Roger Perrin’s Prestige Blanc has five different grapes. The majority of the blend is Grenache Blanc and Clairette, followed by Marsanne, Rousanne, and Viognier. The 2014 is a beautifully woven mix of these grapes. Some have rich body, some have crisp acidity, and some contribute aromatic complexity. The end result is a masterful composition, a full-flavored, spicy white that will match well with strong fish dishes and cheesy gratins.
Direct Riesling
2013 Riesling (Dr. Fischer)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
We usually carry Dr. Fischer’s amazingly consistent wines from Ockfener Bockstein. This year they released for the first time a wine simply labeled Riesling – and what a great value it is. We place this in the off-dry category of Riesling, with its crisp, lively, fruity aroma and fine medium body. In the finish this wine states emphatically: I am Riesling.
Listed prices are honored through October 14th, 2015. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 39, No. 10
Dominio del Águila is a new winery in the Ribera del Duero that uses old techniques. Given Jorge Monzon Pasqual’s resumé this winery is likely to soar. He studied at Domaine de la Romanée Conti and at Vega Sicilia, and was technical director at Arzuaga
Navarra for nine years, all the while buying small parcels of old vines in Ribera del Duero. First we must mention his Pícaro Clarete, a red and white mix aged in barrel. With its spicy, smoky berry flavors, this is more than a rosé. A little more than a hundred cases were made in this vintage and we were crazy enough to buy one. Of slightly more commercial interest is the 2012 Pícaro tinto. This is a harmonious Burgundian-style Tempranillo-based (95%) red that is co-fermented with some white Albillo along with red Garnacha and Bobal. It’s an elegant, subtle yet lengthy red with hints of fresh flowers and cherry fruit. Of the 335 cases made we were ecstatic to receive five.
The town of Barbaresco is the work playground of the Vacca family. Renato runs Cantina del Pino and cousin Aldo is the director at the Produttori del Barbaresco. Both produce iconic Nebbiolo wines from terrific vineyard sites. To get to know the transparent, weightless style of the Cantina del Pino wines, we suggest trying the 2013 Langhe Nebbiolo. With its aromas of red fruits, earthy, savory flavors, and spicy, tannic finish, this is textbook Nebbiolo. And terrific with Robiola, one of the great cheeses of the region.
Last month we featured the lovely Pelaverga from the family estate of Fratelli Alessandria. This month we’re on to their elegant Barolo, which provides immediate pleasure and is a wonderful example of the early-drinking 2011 vintage. Gentle, silken tannins give this wine gorgeous texture. On the palate, plums give way to hints of anise and minerals. Although this Barolo has aging potential, it’s drinking beautifully now, so while you’re waiting for your 2010s to mature, this is the Barolo to drink. And thanks to the exchange rate, you can enjoy it for a fantastic price.
This June we were again able to visit our favorite pair of wine-making sisters in the village of Saint-Marcel-d’Ardèche. Marie-Laurence and Elisabeth took over their family estate in 2003 and have been continuing a tradition of organic farming that goes back for at least twenty-one generations. Their mother ran a well beloved restaurant at their home for many years and the family maintains a farm with goats (visit facebook.com/wineandcheesecask for video of the goats eating wild cherries).
Their 2014 Côtes du Rhône ‘Paul’ is named after their uncle Paul, who according to Marie-Laurence is ‘a maniac of the vines!’ His namesake cuvée consists of 90% Grenache from 80-year-old vines he lovingly tended, and 10% Clairette. This unoaked red proves that an elegant, subtle wine with compelling scents of herbs can come from a hot Mediterranean climate. For Syrah fans, the sisters have made the Chaveyron 1422, whose name pays homage to the family purchase of the Chaveyron vineyard in that year. It’s a baby Côte-Rôtie composed of 95% Syrah and 5% Viognier: perfumed, savory, smoky, meaty, and delicious. The closed hands on the label belong to the sisters’ father and are meant to express the closed nature of Syrah. In order to coax open its secrets, Marie-Laurence suggests decanting the Chaveyron for two hours. Although it’s delicious upon opening, it will gain in depth with time. Meanwhile, why not enjoy the Paul while waiting for the 1422?
Despite the fun nature of this fizzy dry rosé, the Michlits at Meinklang are serious about biodynamics, an organic and holistic approach to agriculture. Their dedication to biodiversity extends not only to different kinds of crops but also to insects and animals, hence the cows on their labels (they provide fertilizer). In vineyards
located in the Neusiedlersee region of Eastern Austria, the Michlits grow the Pinot Noir that goes into this charming rosé . At 10.5% alcohol, it’s the perfect aperitif to start off an evening. But with its strawberry fruit, it’s also delightful paired with many kinds of cuisines, spicy or otherwise. The 2014 has been a customer favorite this summer for good reason. Now we have even more reason to enjoy it at a discounted price. Once you taste this rosé we defy you to stifle a smile.
Pouilly-Fumé is the sleepy sister of Sancerre. Across the Loire it has a smaller vineyard area and fewer named and recognizable producers. The name we like to know is Hubert Veneau, who makes wine as good as and more affordable than his neighbors’ wines. 2014 is a fabulous vintage at Veneau. This is French Sauvignon Blanc at a high level of quality, with a filigree of minerality and fresh green plum fruit.
At the fairly new Viña Real winery in the Rioja Alavesa 90 percent of the annual production is of this wine, their Crianza. The hand-harvested grapes are fermented in stainless steel and then aged for 14 months in French and American oak. This is a good chunk of time and labor for a wine at this price, and 2010 is one of the best recent Rioja vintages. Rioja Alavesa wines are prized for their freshness and minerality, and this red delivers with an overall elegance and balance.
2012 Barbera d’Alba ‘Due Gelsi’ (Guidobono)
Qupé once again proves to be one of California’s most creative and agile wineries. In 2014 they released a pair of modern blends. The white is a mix of Chardonnay, Viognier, and Marsanne. The result is a white wine that balances ripe flavors of peaches and pears with medium body, and a zesty finish. Try this to great effect with spicy fish tacos.
Portland Oregon’s first USDA-approved Salumeria, Olympia Provisions was founded in 2009 by Elias Cairo, a Greek-American who grew up with a father who made charcuterie at home. He later apprenticed in Europe with master chefs. Deeply rooted in the past, focused on handcrafting quality meats with the best ingredients, Olympia Provisions makes some of the best salamis we’ve had. Start with the Saucisson D’Arles which is simply made of pork and salt, then try the Finocchiona, made with garlic, black pepper, and fennel.
We were very impressed with La Quercia’s ‘Nduja, so we thought we would give their first and most successful creation a try. The Prosciutto Americano is made in Iowa with humanely raised, vegetarian-fed, and antibiotic-free pork. Earthy, rich, and sweet.
This creative blend of Chardonnay, Viognier, and Marsanne is crisp and dry, with a long, clean finish. Have with crab cakes. 
2012 Sangiovese ‘Il Ruspo’ (Barbi)
2012 Bordeaux Rouge (Château Haut Gaussens)
2013 Malbec Clásico (Altos las Hormigas)