Newsletter

July 15, 2015 – August 14, 2015

La Loire

Our near-annual trip to the Loire took us from Angers to Roanne with stops in Vendôme, Montlouis, and Sancerre. We have tasted, and conclude that 2014 is an excellent Loire vintage and that the wines, in all hues, continue to be incredible values.

redline

Cave Vendôme
2014 Coteaux du Vendômois Rosé ‘Cocagne’ (Cave de
Vendômois)
Sale Price $9.99 – $101.90 case of twelve
Cocagne Coteaux du Vendômois RoséYou haven’t lived until you’ve tried Pineau d’Aunis. This ancient Loire valley red grape makes distinctive, savory, peppery rosés. Locally called Gris, these wines have striking aromatics and a spicy dry finish. The Cave Cooperative in Vendôme excels with its single vineyard ‘Cocagne’ bottling. The 2014 is deep, dry, and delicious.

redline

The Granite Accord
2014 Côte Roannaise ‘Eclat de Granite’ (Domaine Sérol)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
Domaine Sérol Côte Roannaise Eclat de GraniteThe first wine we adored from Domaine Serol was their 2012 ‘Old Vines’ bottling. Honest folks that they are, they moved some of the old vines juice into a single vineyard bottling and now produce an equally good wine from Gamay grown in granite called ‘Eclat de Granite.’ In the Côte Roannaise their
Gamay is called Saint Romain and it is has adapted to the cooler climate. This 2014 is spicy and minerally, with perfect raspberry fruit. For the geographically curious the Côte Roannaise is the Loire Valley’s southern outpost near the source of the river. This versatile red will pair as well with salmon and lentils as it will with steak and spuds.

redline

Gneiss Muscadet
2014 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine ‘Gneiss de Bel Abord’
(Domaine de la Fruitière)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Gneiss de Bel Abord Muscadet Sèvre et MaineIf you like Muscadet, you’re lucky: you have found one of the best values in white wine. And also one of interesting diversity, as the best growers bottle their wines by soil types. Gneiss, pronounced ‘nice,’ is an eroded granite that gives the Melon de Bourgogne grape a crisp, lively minerality, while the ‘sur lie’ method of aging on the natural yeasts gives the wine body. Domaine de la Fruitière’s 2014 Gneiss de Bel Abord possesses all these qualities in refreshing fashion. A terrific wine for summer seafood.

A Site to Behold
2014 Saumur-Champigny ‘Les Poyeux’ (Cave de Saumur)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
Cave de Saumur Saumur-Champigny Les Poyeux The Alliance Loire Group incorporates several Loire Valley cooperative wineries. Their wines are always affordable and are often classic examples of Loire viticulture. Their high-end project ‘Terroirs et Lieux-dits de Loire’ are their best wines and greatest values. These site-specific (Lieux-dits) wines are culled from the best vineyards. The 2014 Saumur-Champigny ‘Les Poyeux’ is a ridiculously good value of pure Cabernet Franc. This deep, earthy red is packed with berry fruit and ripe tannins, and finishes long and dry.

redline

Touraine
2014 Touraine Sauvignon ‘L’Arpent des Vaudons’
(Jean-François Mérieau)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
Jean-François Mérieau Touraine Sauvignon L’Arpent des VaudonsOf all the Loire Valley grapes to have a worldwide impact, Sauvignon Blanc is singular. But we still adhere to the style and value of not-too-aromatic, crisp and dry Sauvignon Blanc from the Touraine. Jean-François Mérieau’s 2014 is a classic, very French and very Sauvignon Blanc with its bracing dryness and quince-like fruit. Great with a salad of warmed chèvre and summer-fresh green beans.

redline

Vouvray Sec
2014 Vouvray Sec ‘Les Aumones’ (Domaine Le Capitaine)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Domaine Le Capitaine Vouvray Sec Les AumonesMost Vouvray sold in the U.S. is called Demi-Sec, a medium-dry style that captures the gentle fruit of Chenin Blanc, but still retains the fine chalky character of Vouvray. In the 2014 vintage we have both the Sec and Demi-Sec versions from Le Capitaine. The Sec is very dry, but retains the soft body of Vouvray and its fine mineral contents. When someone asks for a white that is not too dry nor acidic, Vouvray delivers.

Listed prices are honored through August 14th, 2015. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 39, No. 8

redline

Pink d’Oc
2014 Coteaux du Languedoc Rosé (Château de Flaugergues)
Sale Price $9.99 – $101.90 case of twelve
Château de Flaugergues Coteaux du Languedoc RoséRosé season is far from over, but we have ramped down our newsletter offerings for fear of saturation. We still have dozens of rosés in the store, but this month’s solitary southern French offering is the delightfully dry Languedoc Rosé from Flaugergues, which rolls onto your palate much better than the name rolls off the tongue. Genial peach fruit merges with a minerally dry finish. Beautiful with a steaming pot of mussels.

redline

Cantina Cellaro Nero d’Avola LumaNero Sun of Sicily
2013 Nero d’Avola ‘Luma’ (Cantina Cellaro)
Sale Price $9.99 – $101.90 case of twelve
Nero d’Avola delivers the rich, dark fruit one expects from the sun-soaked island of Sicily. The 2013 Luma is packed with ripe plum fruit and soft tannins, with an earthy dry finish. This is perfect for grilled vegetables.

redline

Kék is Blau
2010 Kékfrankos ‘Balf’ (Weninger)
Sale Price $9.99 – $101.90 case of twelve
Weninger Kékfrankos BalfKékfrankos is the literal Hungarian translation of the German Blaufränkisch, the great red wine from the Pannonian plain of central Europe. Fritz Weninger makes wine on both sides of the Austro-Hungarian border. Balf hails from Sopron in Hungary. This is a savory, mellow red with a lively, peppery finish. Try this with a spicy grilled chicken.

redline

Frascati – A Roman Vineyard
2014 Frascati ‘Poggio Verde’ (Principe Pallavicini)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Principe Pallavicini Frascati Poggio VerdeWhen we were in Rome we drank Frascati, but it was not as good as this one. While not far from the center of Rome, Principe Pallavicini produces an intense and balanced Frascati based on the ancient Malvasia grape variety. Its herbal aroma of sage leads to crisp pear-like fruit and a long, lively finish. A great wine for a tomato, mozzarella, and basil salad. Followed by the Pasta Carbonara.

There’s Godello In Them There Hills
2014 Valdeorras ‘Louro’ (Rafael Palacios)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Rafael Palacios Valdeorras LouroValdeorras, Galicia’s inland province for white wine, produces superb Godello, especially in the hands of Rafael Palacios. A few months ago we featured his ‘Bolo’ made from purchased grapes. This month we have his ‘Louro’ made from his own vineyards and raised in barrel. The intensity of the Godello grapes renders the barrels a textural enhancement. The real flavor interest is the brisk lime fruit and the deep whirlpool of minerals. Rafael is making some of the best white wines in Spain today, and this is truly amazing for the price. Have this with scallops, lobster, etc

redline

Praise for Dolcetto
2013 Dolcetto d’Alba (Oddero)
Sale Price $12.99 – $132.50 of twelve
Oddero Dolcetto d’AlbaIs Dolcetto the greatest Piedmontese wine? Certainly not, but it is among the most affordable ones, and the one you want when you have a food-matching dilemma. The 2013 Oddero won’t steal the show from your labor intensive mushroom risotto, but it will provide a stridently ripe, black fruitiness and a firm buttress of tannin. And if you are having it with cheeseburgers, its fruit and tannins will be the perfect foil for the juicy cheese and meat.

redline

Lagrein
2014 Lagrein (Colterenzio)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
Colterenzio LagreinFor many years, we’ve carried the wines of Colterenzio, a 300-member-strong cooperative in Italy’s Alto Adige, because they consistently provide delicious wines made from indigenous varieties at great prices. Their 2014 Lagrein is one such wine. It’s a savory, chewy, dry red that speaks of dark berries and black plums, with a hint of vetiver and spice. It’s also one of those reds that taste wonderful when slightly chilled, especially on these warmer summer nights. This is a fine red to go with either grilled lamb chops or a casual repast of cured meats and alpine cheeses.


redline

Moscato d’Asti
2014 Moscato d’Asti ‘La Caliera’ (Borgo Margliano)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Borgo Margliano Moscato d’Asti La CalieraNot just for dessert or for drinkers with a sweet tooth, this Moscato is delightfully frothy, delicate, and quietly sweet. Its charming aromas of elderflower, orange, and honeysuckle blossoms are an immediate mood elevator. In the mouth the perfume of flowers blends with flavors of peaches and lemon curd. This is the perfect aperitivo: low enough in alcohol (5%) to be recklessly drinkable, with a touch of sweetness to stimulate the juices. NB: Don’t let the crown cap fool you into thinking you can dispense with a corkscrew, as there’s a cork hiding underneath.

redline

Remembering 2005
2005 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Spätlese (Bollig-Lehnert)
Sale Price $16.99 – $173.30 case of twelve
Bollig-Lehnert Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling SpätleseThe resilient Riesling survives harsh winters in the Mosel and rewards long aging in the bottle. The trend for trocken is here, and we enjoy it, but the soul of German Riesling is the satisfying transformation of Spätlese-level ripened grapes into a palate-stretching flavor at ten years of age. Stored at the winery until its recent arrival, this is a gorgeous aged Riesling in which spiced fruit merges with mineral-inflected custard. This does not need to be paired with food, but will do amazing things when matched will almost anything.
2005 Barbera del Monferrato Superiore ‘Perlydia’ (Cantine Valpane)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Cantine Valpane Barbera del Monferrato Superiore PerlydiaCantine Valpane honors its matriarch Lydia by aging their best Barbera for five years in vat and then further aging in bottle before release. This spicy, zesty Barbera is a wild ride of muddled raspberry fruit and savory, foresty flavor. At ten years of age this is delivering amazing balance and depth at a crazily affordable price. Probably best with an aged cheese, but will be superb with a fresh pesto, pasta affair.

Specialty Foods

redline

Schnebelhorn $21.99 per piece
(Regular price $25.99)

Schnebelhorn cheeseIf you’ve tried the Challerhocker and are as obsessed as we are, you need to try this cheese immediately! As fun to eat as it is to say, it’s named after the peak of the highest mountain in the region, the Schnebelhorn, which rises1300 meters on the border of Canton St. Gallen and Canton Zurich. Crafted by third generation cheesemaker Reto Güntensperger at his family’s Butschwil dairy, this is a complex alpine-style raw cow’s milk cheese with a lingering spiciness cushioned in cream.

redline

NEW! Nola’s Salsa $6.99 per 16oz container
(Regular price $7.99)

Nolas SalsaA great new addition to our grab and go fridge is this outstanding fresh salsa made locally in Jamaica Plain. The Salsa Fresca is a traditional Mexican style salsa made with seven raw blended ingredients. It’s fresh tasting with a subtle kick at the end. The Fire Roasted Corn and Black Bean Salsa is a combination of blended raw ingredients and roasted tomatoes, non-GMO corn, black beans, and cumin. All natural ingredients with no added sugars, oil, tomato paste, or preservatives.

redline

Windsor Tomme $15.99 per lb.
(Regular price $17.99)

From Spring Brook Farm in Reading, Vermont, a raw cow’s milk cheese akin to Tomme de Savoie (though slightly taller in stature), with fissure-laden ivory paste and a dusty gray rind. Delicate and grassy in flavor, with a great semi-firm texture.



redline

Wines of the Month — July 15, 2015 through August 14, 2015

Nieto Senetiner Malbec Camila2013 Malbec ‘Camila’ (Nieto Senetiner)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
All the deep dark fruits of Malbec are on display here with ripe round tannins. Not a bad choice with grilled stuff.

redline

2014 Terra Alta Garnatxa Blanca (Altés)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
Altés Terra Alta Garnatxa BlancaFull flavored, full bodied Garnatxa Blanca from a remote high-elevation Catalan vineyard. This earthy dry white is ideal for a spicy seafood and rice stew.


Gorgo Custoza2014 Custoza (Gorgo)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
Custoza is a vineyard area around the southeast of Lake Garda that makes a Soave-like white. Gorgo’s is a blend of Garganega, Trebbiano, and Tocai resulting in a rich, friendly, all-purpose white for summer foods.

redline

Cave de Saumur Saumur Blanc Les Epinats2014 Saumur Blanc ‘Les Epinats’ (Cave de Saumur)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
This is a fabulous dry Loire Valley Chenin Blanc with crisp balance, spicy fruit, and an earthy, intense finish. Terrific with summer salads, seafood, and corn.