Newsletter

February 15, 2014 – March 14, 2014

Far Flung Reds

Geography and variety are the key variables in academic discourse on the origins and mutations of grape varieties. This month’s newsletter is one of our more diverse in its selection of red wines. In addition, on the inside we have a white Kerner and a pink Tibouren if these front page wonders are not confusing enough.

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The Bonarda Chronicles
2012 Bonarda (Finca La Linda)
Sale Price $9.99 – $101.90 case of twelve
Bonarda LaLinda We may or may not have two Bonardas on this page. The 2012 Finca La Linda Bonarda hails from Argentina, where Italian immigrants first planted the grape, but back in Italy there is a debate as to what constitutes true Bonarda, which is frequently blended with Nebbiolo in Northern Piedmont. Aside from its bargain price, what most attracted us to this Bonarda are its ripe fruit aromas and its mellow dusty tannins. This has the ideal weight for a chicken cacciatore or a spicy seafood stew.

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A Salute to the Donkey
2010 Peljesac (Vinarija Dingac)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
PeljesacThis Croatian red is made from the Plavac Mali grape grown on the Peljesac peninsula where vineyards overlook the Adriatic. As the vineyards are too steep for tractors, the growers use donkeys to work and help with the harvest, hence the adorable label. Plavac Mali is a relative of Zinfandel and in this Mediterranean climate wines can reach heroic alcohol levels; but here they blend some lighter wine into wine from one of the richest, ripest plots to achieve a fine balance. Try this with a long braised lamb shank with barley risotto.

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Zweigelt, the Super Austrian Red
2012 Burgenland Zweigelt (Salzl)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Salzl ZweigeltWhen Fritz Zweigelt fused St. Laurent and Blaufrankisch back in 1922, he was most likely trying to combine the best agricultural qualities of both grapes and not realizing that he had created a delicious, supple red for all seasons. The 2012 from Salzl is an elegant red with berry fruit and peppery spice.

Bobal
2012 Utiel-Requena (Estenas)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
Estenas Utiel-RequenaUtiel-Requena is on the outskirts of the Eastern Spanish city of Valencia. The principle grape in the region is Bobal, which, because of its resistance to drought, has not been replaced by better-known grapes. The 2012 from Estenas is a gorgeous cherry-scented red with velvety tannins and a long mellow finish. This minimally tannic red will match well with vegetarian paella a la Valenciana.

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Carménère
2011 Carménère Reserva (Chono)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Chono Carménère ReservaCarménère, the long lost orphan grape of Bordeaux, is thriving in Chile, where in the right climate makes an earthy, minerally red stuffed with blackberry fruit. The 2011 Chono Reserva comes from the Maule Valley, saw ten months in French oak, and has ripe fruit aromas along with full body and smooth, ripe tannins. Hey Chile! Bordeaux called. It wants its Carménère back.

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Uva Rara – Could it be Bonarda?
Valceresole Uva Rara 2012 Colline Novaresi ‘Valceresole’ (Francesca Castaldi)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Northern Piedmont loves its Nebbiolo, which has many local names. Growers in the Colline Novaresi grow a grape they call Uva Rara and usually blend it with Nebbiolo. This wine from Castaldi is entirely Uva Rara, which to us is a first. This spicy, minerally, tannic red has real depth and continuous flavor interest that leads to a spicy finish. We suggest this with a braised beef with mushrooms followed by a Fontina val d’Aosta and/or Taleggio. This is truly an alpine-style red.

Listed prices are honored through March 14th, 2014. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 38, No. 3

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The Pépière
Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet Sèvre et Maine 2012 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine (Domaine de la Pépière)
Sale Price $12.99 – $132.50 case of twelve
Marc Ollivier has long been our go-to guy for great Muscadet, and his Domaine de la Pépière is our house wine extraordinaire. The 2012 is bracing, crisp, and dry, with surprising twists and turns. With seafood first, with everything else second.

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Terre di Poppiano ChiantiStraight Chianti
2012 Chianti (Terre di Poppiano)
Sale Price $9.99 – $101.90 case of twelve
The Guicciardini clan has been making wine in Tuscany since the 1300s and made it through many epochs without stainless steel fermentation; but they have reinvented themselves and now make a fresh, lively basic Chianti with modern equipment. The renaissance is now. Here’s a lovely ten-dollar Chianti..

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Viña Alberdi
Viña Alberdi La Rioja Alta2007 Rioja Reserva ‘Viña Alberdi’ (La Rioja Alta)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Viña Alberdi is the young Reserva from La Rioja Alta and their 2007 is a winner. This is 100% Tempranillo, gracefully aged in oak for four years and then in bottle for two additional years to create a seamless, smooth red that is perfect for a long-braised pork shoulder and turnip greens.

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Monteleccio/Montalcino/Toscano
2011 Monteleccio ‘Sesti’ (Castello di Argiano)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
Sesti MonteleccioBrunello di Montalcino reaches the heights of Tuscan red wines, but there is room under the firmament for younger reds with deep and persistent flavor. The 2011 Sesti from Castello di Argiano is pure Sangiovese with a Montalcino vein; it has a ripeness of fruit and a firmness of tannin that, in concert, is stellar. Few Tuscan reds in this price range have impressed as much as this.

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Haut ‘09
Château de Sainte Gemme Haut-Médoc2009 Haut-Médoc (Château de Sainte Gemme)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
This Bordeaux has hung around our shelves for a few years and we couldn’t help noticing that it keeps getting better and better. 2009 is a gloriously ripe vintage, and this equal-parts blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grown near the border of the Saint Julien commune is emerging as a deeply fruited, earthy, dry Haut-Médoc.

Southern Sauvignon
2013 Sauvignon Blanc ‘Albaclara’ (Haras de Pirque)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Albaclara Sauvignon BlancSauvignon Blanc has a proven popularity, so it appears easy for producers to follow a given script to make marketable Sauvignon. Haras de Pirque’s Albaclara has the raw materials to go its own way with this deliciously full Sauvignon Blanc. Zesty pear-like fruit, rich weight, and crisp dryness build to a clean, minerally finish. This fine dry white will match well with roasted cod and haddock.

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Old Vine Old World Pinot Noir
2011 Bourgogne Rouge (Maison Roche de Bellene)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Maison Roche de Bellene Bourgogne Rouge The supply of Bourgogne Pinot Noir will be low for the next few years due to small harvests, but the wines have turned out to be of very good quality. A case in point is the 2011 from Roche de Bellene. This aromatically pure, delicately etched old-vine Pinot Noir is a masterful food wine, poised for a classic roast chicken, but ready to complement a broiled salmon with spicy seasoning.

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Will Hill Chard
2012 North Coast Chardonnay (William Hill)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
William Hill Chardonnay California vintners have found out that imitating Burgundians may not be best for their end results. We have given up the notion that there is a French Chablis equivalent in California, but agree that West Coast sunshine, Chardonnay, and skillful blending can produce wonderful results. The 2012 from William Hill blends grapes from Sonoma and Mendocino with a little Napa juice as well. It balances ripe, rich fruit, mellow oak, and a luscious finish. Crab cakes and a full-bodied Chardonnay have always worked well for us.

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Calling Doctor Kerner
2012 Kerner (Abbazia di Novacella)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Kerner Abbazia di Novacella Founded in 1142, as an Augustinian monastery, the Abbazia di Novacella is also one of the leading wineries in Alto Adige. They specialize in crisp, dry, perfumed grape varieties like Silvaner and Gewürztraminer. Plus they make a world-class Kerner. This grape is a cross between Schiava Grossa and Riesling named after a 19th-century doctor and writer of drinking songs who advised his patients to drink wine as the best natural medicine. With its pristine aromatics and crunchy fruit, the 2012 Kerner is akin to a lovely high-altitude dry Riesling. Try this with a broiled trout or a mushroom risotto.


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Cru Classé Tibouren
2012 Côtes de Provence Rosé (Clos Cibonne)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
CTibouren ôtes de Provence RoséIt is too late to accuse us of pandering to Valentine’s Day by promoting a rosé in February, and anyway this is not your average Rosé. Clos Cibonne is a Cru Classé in the Côtes de Provence. Here they cultivate a rare ancient ancient grape called Tibouren, which they age in 100-year-old barrels in which a layer of yeast (á la Fino Sherry) naturally develops on the surface of the wine. This nourishes and adds complexity, which is why the wine is held back for a year before release and why its depth of flavor makes this a rosé that is not wedded to a warm weather month. It’s neither very sherry-like, nor is it like a fresh, simple southern French rosé. The lightly nutty aromas are accented by dry berry fruit and mellow barrel-aged character. This has enough going on to stand up to a bouillabaisse or a spicy ratatouille.

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Almost too Drinkable
Raisins Gaulois Vin de France2012 Vin de France ‘Raisins Gaulois’ (M. Lapierre)
Sale Price $12.99 – $132.50 case of twelve
This is a young-vine Beaujolais from M. Lapierre. Most of the grapes come from within the Morgon Cru, but some come from outside, and because there is no Vin de Pays in the Beaujolais, it must be labeled as Vin de France; hence the defiant Raisins Gaulois name. The 2012 is nice, fruity fun, but has enough sappy concentration that it will match with anything. Warning: one bottle will disappear before dinner is over. It may disappear before dinner is prepared.

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Brézème
Brézème Côtes du Rhône 2012 Côtes du Rhône ‘Brézème’ (Eric Texier)
Sale Price $23.99 – $244.70 case of twelve
While this wine carries a basic Côtes du Rhône appellation, it has a more regal history. From the 15th to the 19th century Syrah wines from Brézème rivalled those of Hermitage. Phylloxera, a couple of wars, and rural depopulation left Brézème in poor condition, but a few growers persisted. Intrigued by an article in an 1880 book about Les Grands Vins de France, Eric Texier investigated and is now working alongside the old timers to resurrect Brézème. The 2012 is young and structured with aromas of currants and black olives along with meaty tannins and lovely inner mouth perfume. Have this with a garlic and rosemary infused leg of lamb.

Specialty Foods

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Alpha Tolman, $17.99 per lb. (Reg. price $19.99)
Named after a turn-of-the-century philanthropic dairy farmer from Greensboro, Alpha Tolman is a robust and meaty tribute to the traditional alpine-style cheeses of Europe. Made with raw cow’s milk and aged 7 to 11 months in the cellars at Jasper Hill Farm in Greensboro, Vermont, it’s equally well suited to melting or snacking.

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Ewephoria, $17.99 per lb. (Reg. price $19.99)
Ewephoria cheese The candy of cheese, this Gouda-style pasteurized sheep’s milk cheese is produced on a small farm in the Friesland region of Holland. Aged for at least 9 months, Ewephoria boasts a subtle sheep flavor and an intense, nutty sweetness. Pair with sherry, porter, or bourbon.

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Creminelli Finocchiona Salami,
$20.99 per lb.  (Reg. price $22.99)

Creminelli Finocchiona is handmade artisanal salami flavored with fennel seeds in a natural beef casing. Not as salty as the original Tuscan version, it pairs well with strong cheeses and hearty wines. Produced in the USA by Cristiano Creminelli, whose family has been in the Italian salami business for centuries. Creminelli salamis are made of organic ingredients with heritage breeds that are humanely raised without antibiotics and with vegetarian feed.

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Great Hill Blue, $14.99 per lb.
Great Hill Blue cheese (Reg. price $16.99)

Great Hill Blue is an award-winning crumbly blue cheese with just the right amount of tang. Internally ripened and made with raw, non-homogenized cow’s milk at Great Hill Dairy in Marion, Massachusetts.

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Valle D’Aosta Aged Fontina, $13.99 per lb. (Reg. price $15.99)
The true Fontina, a pungent, raw cow’s-milk cheese produced in the Italian Alps in the region of Val D’Aosta. Semi-soft, made with unpasteurized cow’s milk, and aged about 3 months, this is a savory cheese with grassy flavor, great for melting.

Sale Dates

The First Quarterly Sale of 2014 begins
Friday February 21st and runs through
Monday March 3rd
Details: 10% off six bottles; 20% off twelve bottles. Wines of the Month (back page), fortified wines (Port, Sherry, Vermouth, etc.) and sparkling wines may be included for a 10% discount. Blue tagged (NET) wines and jug wines (1.5L and 3L) are excluded.


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Wines of the Month — February 14, 2014 through March 15, 2014

Septima Malbec 2012 Malbec (Septima)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
The 2012 Septima Malbec is all that one wants in affordable Malbec. It is loaded with dark fruit, soft tannins, and fine minerality.

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Castello d’Alba Douro 2012 Douro (Castello d’Alba)
Sale Price $7.99 – $86.29 case of twelve
The 2012 Douro from Castello d’Alba is your usual Portuguese blend of three Tintas and one Touriga, distinguished by a gentle dose of oak, ripe plummy fruit, and a fine dry finish.


Mundo de Yuntero La Mancha 2012 La Mancha (Mundo de Yuntero)
Sale Price $7.99 – $86.29 case of twelve
Mundo de Yuntero is a solid mix of Tempranillo and Syrah from La Mancha. Ripe dark berry fruit combined with fine dry tannins make this an excellent value.

 


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Vitiano Umbria Bianco2012 Umbria Bianco (Vitiano)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
The V’s have it. Vitiano’s blend of Verdicchio and Vermentino from Umbria is a peachy, floral delight.