Newsletter

December 10, 2013 – January 14, 2014

Treats

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Barbaresco
2009 Barbaresco ‘Ovello’ (Cantina del Pino)
Regular Price $59.99 – Sale Price $47.99 NET
Cantina Del Pino Barbaresco Ovello There is no official rating system for the vineyards of Barolo and Barbaresco, but there are established sites that have earned an elevated reputation. The Ovello vineyard in the more than capable hands of the folks at Cantina del Pino is one of our favorite Barbaresco vineyards. With some aeration this gorgeously colored ruby red wine proves to be packed with aromatic cherry blossom and an earthy vein of minerals. The palate is saturated with ripe fruit and smoky tannins, leading to an exalted dry finish.

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Volnay
Domaine des Terres de Velle Volnay EZ Blanches2010 Volnay ‘Ez Blanches’ (Domaine des Terres de Velle)
Regular Price $49.99 – Sale Price $39.99 NET
Volnay is one of our favorite red Burgundies for its top-loaded aromatics and its overall grace. Domaine des Terres de Velle is a small new winery committed to minimal intervention in the vineyard and the cellar. Their 2010 Volnay is an impeccably balanced Pinot Noir with elegant berry fruit and finely-etched tannins.

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Bandol
2010 Bandol (Bastide Blanche)
Regular Price $29.99 – Sale Price $23.99 NET
The last few vintages from Bastide Blanche have been outstanding and the prices have yet to catch up to the quality. In the summer their Bandol Rosé is a gem. In the winter their red is a spicy yet smooth Mourvèdre-based mouth filler. This is a great match with a leg of lamb or a roasted duck.

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Mags of Morgon
2011 Morgon ‘Cuvée MMXI’ (Marcel Lapierre)
Regular Price $99.99 per 1.5L – Sale Price $74.99 per 1.5L NET
Marcel Lapierre did more than anyone to transform the reputation of Beaujolais and in particular his home-based Cru – Morgon. He has been ably succeeded by his son Mathieu, and every vintage of Lapierre Morgon is a treat. In addition to the regular bottling the Lapierres occasionally produce a super Cuvée from the best parcels and vats. The 2011 is dear in price for Morgon, but it is the pinnacle of the appellation.

Umami Oh-Baby
2001 Rioja Reserve ‘Viña Tondonia’ (Lopez de Heredia)
Regular Price $44.99 – Sale Price $35.99 NET
Rioja Reserve Viña TondoniaLopez de Heredia is a time-warp winery in Rioja. Their offerings in red, white, and pink spend long sojourns in old oak barrels before being bottled and then aged even longer. 2001 is a great vintage in Rioja and the Tondonia is an outstanding Reserva. At first whiff there is an amazing fermented soy bouquet, followed by elegant forest-like flavors and a lean and long, minerally finish.

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Beerenauslese
2006 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Beerenauslese (Bollig-Lehnert)
Regular Price $29.99 per 375 ml – Sale Price $23.99 per 375 ml NET
Not every vintage yields luscious late harvest Riesling grapes of Beereenauslese intensity, but the autumn of 2006 in the Mosel was golden and the grapes’ sugars concentrated impressively. Bollig-Lehnert’s is a truly decadent late harvest Riesling, with kaleidoscopic fruit and an even measure of zesty acidity. A rare treat.

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Best Tawny
Ferreira Duque De Bragança Tawny Port 20 Year Old Tawny Porto ‘Duque de Bragança’ (Ferreira)
Regular Price $59.99 – Sale Price $49.99 NET
As we have observed before, producers of aged Tawny Port do consumers a great favor. By cask aging some of their finest lots and with the experience of skillful blending, growers like Ferreira offer consistent, wonderfully aged Ports. Their 20 Year is the finest of its kind. They use barrel-aged Ports that are up to forty years old to balance the overall blend. From start to finish this is smoothness personified, with an exquisite balance of wood character and grape sweetnessh.

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Drunk in 5 or Cellared for 20
2010 Pessac-Léognan (Domaine de Chevalier)
Regular Price $135.00 – Sale Price $99.99 NET
Some Bordeaux require many years of patient aging to reach their peak. As we are relatively impatient we tend to prefer wines from Saint-Emilion and the Pessac-Léognan that feature softer tannins and have longevity. One of our all-time favorites is Domaine de Chevalier. Their 2010 is a masterpiece.

Listed prices are honored through January 14th, 2014. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 38, No. 1

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Apulia
2010 Salice Salentino (Vinicola Resta)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Resta Salice Salentino The continuing challenge of warm weather wine regions is how to make their wines graceful. Apulia, with its beefy bruisers, was one of the last places we expected to achieve this. The 2010 Salice Salentino from Resta is a revelation. This is not too reliant on its primary fruit flavors. Instead it has earthy and dry flavors without any heaviness

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3 Bordeaux
Medoc
2010 Listrac-Médoc (Chateau Fonréaud)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Listrac-Médoc Château Fonréaud<Red Bordeaux is a lion in winter. Faced with a standing rib roast and a roaring fire these wines do their job. They need not be classed growths cellared in a Scottish castle, purchased at auction, and decanted by your butler. They can be a traditional Listrac-Médoc from Fonréaud with its classic aromas of pencil shavings and iron filings.

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Blaye
2009 Blaye Côte de Bordeaux (Château Capron)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Blaye Côte de Bordeaux Château CapronAt nearly five years of age the 2009 Bordeaux are gushingly beautiful wines with gobs of blackberry and currant fruit, soft tannins, and substantive finishes. The 2009 Capron fills the entire frame with its dense purple fruit, fine structure, and intense, long flavor.

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Saint Estèphe
2011 Saint-Estèphe (Les Hauts de Pez)
Sale Price $29.99 – $305.90 case of twelve
Saint-Estèphe Les Hauts de PezThe 2011 Les Hauts de Pez Saint-Estèphe is a sturdy red with mouth-filling richness, plummy fruit, and ripe tannins. While young, its full flavor will fare well with a prune-stuffed pork loin and all the trimmings.

Underwood Pinot NoirOregon Pinot
2012 Pinot Noir (Underwood)
Sale Price $12.99 – $132.50 case of twelve
Underwood once again achieves a best value in Oregon for its Pinot Noir. The 2012 has deeper, darker fruit than we recall from previous vintages.

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My My SB
2012 Hawkes Bay Sauvignon Blanc (Maimai)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Maimai Hawkes Bay Sauvignon Blanc Popularity easily breeds imitation and New Zealand’s Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc epitomizes that truism. They are amazingly consistent, grassy, grapefruity whites, but we found the Maimai from Hawkes Bay to be a pleasant variation. Austere at first, it then reveals some gentle citrus fruit and keeps a composed, dry character throughout

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Viognier in Rhône Form
‘Côtes du Rhône Blanc La Borry Domaine Saint Amant 2012 Côtes du Rhône Blanc ‘La Borry’ (Domaine Saint Amant)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
A white Côtes du Rhône can be a mixture of six or seven different grape varieties. Most producers like to toss in a dollop of the sexy Viognier along with the other grapes, but Domaine Saint Amant tosses in a little Roussanne (5%) to accent the Viognier. This is a peachy, floral delight. A fresh orchard of aroma, good weight, and a dry, not too heavy finish.

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Champagne of Choice
Brut Champagne Reserve Jean VesselleBrut Champagne Reserve (Jean Vesselle)
Sale Price $34.99 – $377.90 case of twelve
There will never be a product placement for Jean Vesselle in a hit movie and you will never see an advertisement for it in a glossy magazine. At this family-run grower Champagne, the budget is in the bubbles, and we love it.


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Prosecco Brut Bianca VignaFizz Italian Style
Prosecco Brut (Bianca Vigna)
Sale Price $14.99 – $161.90 case of twelve
This new Prosecco has two more positive attributes going for it than other Proseccos in its price range. The bubbles are more present and the finish is drier. Have this with the feast of the seven fishes.

2012 Lambrusco Grasparossa ‘Becco Rosso’ (Fiorini)
Lambrusco Grasparossa Bocco RossoSale Price $14.99 – $161.90 case of twelve
Lambrusco’s time has come. We are extremely fond of the bracing combination of chilled, bubbly red wine and dry tannins. Have this with salumi, cheeses, and lardo.

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Mâcon
2012 Mâcon-Villages (Verget)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Verget Mâcon VillagesWe hesitate to praise the wines from Verget because the proprietor already has a pretty big head, but here we have to give credit where it is due. This is a wonderful Mâcon-Villages, a delightful Chardonnay with just enough fruit to give it body and the proper balance to finish deliciously dry.

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The Smithy
2001 Late Bottled Vintage Porto (Smith-Woodhouse)
Sale Price $29.99 – $323.90 case of twelve
Smith Woodhouse Porto LBV 2001 Smith-Woodhouse is one of the last to produce ‘traditional’ Late Bottled Vintage Port. The current release 2001 was bottled in 2005 and kept at the winery until this year. It has deep, dark, plummy fruit and a fine mineral thread throughout. Break out the Stilton and walnuts.

The Price of Prestige
2010 Bourgueil ‘Prestige’ (Lamé Deslisle Boucard)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Bourgueil Prestige Lamé Deslisle Boucard Forgive us if we gush over the new vintage of Bourgueil ‘Prestige’ from Lamé Deslisle Boucard, but for a few vintages now it truly is the reigning red wine value. The 2010 has fine tannins, lovely fruit, and exquisite balance. This may not be as forward drinking as the 2009, as it has more structure. Yet another great wine from the gentle folks at Lamé Deslisle Boucard.

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Etna
2012 Etna Rosso (Tenuta delle Terre Nere)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Etna Rosso Tenuta delle Terre Nere The volcanic black earth of Sicily’s Etna is as much a component in this wine as the old-vine Nerello Mascalese grapes. This is deep in fruit and loaded with minerals; the finish is spicy. In many ways this winery is out of this world.

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Rosso di Montepulciano
2011 Rosso di Montepulciano (Poderi Sanguineto I e II)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Poderi Rosso di MontepulcianoDora Forsoni and her partner Patrizia Castiglioni do virtually all the work at Podere Sanguineto, so when Dora broke her femur the estate nearly shut down. Dora finally became well enough to bottle the 2011 Rosso, and the drought of one of our favorite Tuscan wines has ended. The choice to harvest early during the hot 2011 vintage paid off with this full-bodied yet graceful blend of Prugnolo Gentile, Canaiolo Nero, and Mammolo. It’s earthy and leathery with fine structure.


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Wines of the Month — December 10, 2013 through January 14, 2014

2012 Côtes du Rhône (À l’Ombre des Fontaines)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.90 case of twelve
Côtes du Rhône À l’Ombre des Fontaines The excellent cooperative winery Vignerons de Caractère continues its run of great value Rhone wines with the 2012 Ombre des Fontaines. The blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Carignan produces a classic, spicy and earthy red with generous fruit and a dry herbal finish.

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2012 Falerio dei Colli Ascolani (Saladini Pilastri)
Sale Price $7.99 – $86.29 case of twelve
Falerio dei Colli Ascolani Saladini Pilastri Italian value winery of the year? Plus it’s organic! Saladini Pilastri’s white 2012 Falerio is crisp and clean, with peachy aromas and flinty, dry flavors. The blend is Trebbiano, Passerina, and Pecorino. Hailing from Italy’s Adriatic coast, it is ideal for seafood.


Delaforce Douro 2011 Douro (Delaforce)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
Portugal produces some of our favorite red wines of the month. This deep, flavorful Douro is a powerful mix of Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca, and Touriga Nacional.Try this with hearty winter stews.

 


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Alicante Puerto Bodegas Sierra Salinas2009 Alicante ‘Puerto’ (Bodegas Sierra Salinas)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
This structured, elegant Alicante blend of Monastrell, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Garnacha Tintorera is a rich dry red with gentle fruit, full body, and an earthy, spicy finish.