Südtirol/Alto Adige
2012 Pinot Grigio (St. Michael-Eppan)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
The cooperative winery St. Michael-Eppan makes some of the freshest whites of Alto Adige. The 2012 Pinot Grigio is subtle and persistently dry, with aromas of freshly cut hay and flavors of ripe apricots. The finish sustains with bracing minerals and measured, crisp acidity. Try this with a grilled trout or a sautéed pork chop with a side of braised cabbage.

Sea and Sardinia
2012 Vermentino di Sardegna ‘Costamolino’ (Argiolas)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
We have recommended this wine thousands of times over many vintages. There is a built-in logic that a wine from an island in the middle of the Mediterranean must go with seafood. The Argiolas Vermentino certainly does go with seafood, but it superbly matches stronger condiments like peppers, lemon, capers, and herbs that can marinate and garnish these dishes. This strong dry white is ideal with a grilled swordfish served with a gremolada-style relish.

Muscadet Goes With Everything
2012 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine ‘La Levraudière’ (Bonnet-Huteau)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Muscadet is one of the best bargains in the whole world of wine. Why is that? It could be that too many people confuse it with the sweet Muscat. And some people believe that it only goes with oysters. It might be because Muscadet comes from the region around the city of Nantes and hardly anyone goes there for a vacation. We rejoice that Muscadet is not expensive because we simply adore it. Dry, minerally, and very crisp, it is of course great with oysters and just about any seafood dish. This month’s Muscadet comes Bonnet-Huteau. Their 2012 La Levraudière is a gorgeous dry white with wisps of peach, leafy tea, and zesty minerals.

An Old Friend
2011 Pinot Blanc (Trimbach)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
For a long time the Trimbach Pinot Blanc has been a staple recommendation for Thanksgiving, as we find that it matches a cornucopia of dishes. The 2011 is a wonderfully balanced, drier than usual vintage of this apple-scented delight from Alsace.

Why Wachau?
2012 Grüner Veltliner ‘Frauengärten’ (Pichler-Krutzler)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
The Wachau is a breathtaking stretch of the Danube where steep hillside vineyards hug a bend in the river. Many consider this to be the best white wine producing region in Austria, and if you added Europe to that title the point would at least be arguable. This area has many of the complex equations needed to make great whites. It has a warm dry summer and cool evenings. It has varied stony soils and good exposure to sunlight. It has Grüner Veltliner, a great grape capable of soaking in the sun and sucking up the minerals. With only 3% of Austria’s production, wines from the Wachau can be expensive, but when they taste like the 2012 Dürnsteiner Frauengärten from Pichler-Krutzler they can also be illuminating bargains. This lovely white has expansive mineral and pepper aromas along with a ripe but crisp finish.

Trials and Tributaries
2012 Rias Baixas Albariño (Columna)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
In Galicia many rivers run to the sea. These Rias resemble the fjords of Norway but with the important bonus that the region is home to the fine white grape Albariño. The Miño is the main river of the region and for a while it coincides with the border between Spain and Portugal. Columna hails from the sub-region of Tea, a river that flows into the Miño. This inland area is warmer and drier (though still wet by Spanish standards) and yields a fuller, more aromatic wine. The best match for Albariño we’ve found is with sweet bay scallops sautéed with butter and herbs, but crab is not far behind.

Three Facets of French Chardonnay
Chardonnay will always be one of the most popular white wines, but it is still interesting to go back to its Burgundian homeland to see where it began and where that prickly term ‘terroir’ always complicates the conversation.

2011 Mâcon-Villages (Domaine des Gandines)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.30 case of twelve
In the hands of a good grower and thanks to warm clay soils, a Mâcon-Villages will rise above its station, resulting in a rich, dry white. The 2011 from Domaine des Gandines is a golden-hued Chardonnay with lovely pear and apple crispness and a lively dry finish that hints at roasted grain. Despite being the least expensive of these three offerings it is the fullest-bodied – and it’s also made with organic grapes.

2012 Petit Chablis (Domaine Chenevières)
Sale Price $15.99 – $163.10 case of twelve
Petit Chablis is not a smaller version of Chablis but a small area of vineyards away from the main growing region that still has a favorable exposition. The 2012 Domaine Chenevières is Chablis to its core with an exquisite balance between flinty earth and ultra-thin slices of crunchy, barely ripe fruits. Have this with shellfish or a delicate sauté of sole.

2011 Bourgogne Blanc (Paul Pernot)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
As much as we love the entire range of Paul Pernot white Burgundies, after tasting his basic Bourgogne Blanc we find it more difficult to recommend his Puligny-Montrachet. Age is a factor. While the Puligny needs time, the Bourgogne Blanc is meant to be drunk young, and in 2011 it has all the ingredients of a fine Côte de Beaune. The interesting aromas of hazelnuts and custard may be the result of its barrel age, but the deep dive into earthiness must be due to the Pernots’ fine old vineyards.

Monterey
2011 Pinot Noir (Irony)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
If you‘d like to start your Thanksgiving planning early we’ll suggest this nicely concentrated Pinot Noir value from Monterey County. The 2011 Irony is packed with ripe berry fruit and a soft, leathery finish. This is a sizable deduction from its regular price of $14.99.

Here Comes the Sun
2010 Alicante (Tarima Hill)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
While the sun certainly rises in the east and we have the Atlantic, we still like to dream of the day when we will wake regularly to the warmth of the sun rising over Alicante in the east of Spain next to the Mediterranean. Until then we have a great alternative in the 2010 Tarima Hill Monastrell, the closest thing to bottled sunshine. This is densely packed with smoky, peppery fruit, and a long lingering finish. Impressive, full-bodied, and ready for a spicy, chorizo paella.

An Auslese Vintage
2006 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Auslese (Dr. Fischer)
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve
There are a lot of great white wines in this newsletter, but this one has above-average pedigree and value. The village of Ockfen is in the Saar valley, where the harvest arrives dangerously late. In 2006 heat and humidity wreaked havoc on the vineyards in the summer months, reducing the chances of a sizable harvest. A golden autumn rescued the vintage, but the results were a rare combination of low-yielding, perfectly ripe Auslese-level grapes and little else. The Fischers were kind enough to hold back some of this exceptional harvest until it was approaching gorgeously ready-to-drink status, resulting in an exceptional value for its prädikat and age. The real question is how to pair this wine with food. It has a decided sweetness, but at this age it appears drier than the Spätleses we also have on offer. If you are feeling adventurous try this with very spicy Szechuan food or have it with a fruit tart and some ripe blue-veined cheeses.