July 15, 2013 –August 14, 2013

Summer of Chenin

We in the wine trade know that Loire Valley Chenin Blanc makes unparalleled white wines that deliver in a wide variety of styles. This month we are concentrating on some of the driest, most affordable versions of this great grape. Plus we have tossed in a thoroughly delicious Greco from Campania, Italy and a lovely dry Riesling from the Rheinhessen.

Chenin Nord
2012 Coteaux du Vendômois Blanc ‘Cocagne’ (Cave de Vendômois)
Sale Price $9.99 – $101.90 case of twelve
Dr.Fisher Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett While the Pineau d’Aunis Rosé from this vineyard is a charmer, it is the Chenin Blanc that we find most striking and deep. The mixture of flint and clay in the ‘Cocagne’ vineyard infuses this dry white with zesty, salty minerals, plus a richness of fruit and a long, lingering finish. The deep, penetrating flavor of this wine will match well with a tasty, oily fish such as bluefish or mackerel.

Saumur-ville
2012 Saumur ‘Les Epinats’ (Cave de Saumur)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Bollig Lehnert Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese We have a long association with the Cave de Saumur, but never got around to a visit until earlier this year. This mostly underground operation is a whirlwind of activity, producing some amazing value-priced wines. Many of you are familiar with their very fine Saumur Blanc Les Pouches. But in some vintages we prefer the bottling from the Les Epinats vineyard. The 2012 from this site has a wonderful aroma of honey and straw, flavors of peaches and apricots, and a clean, long finish.

Vouvray Sec
2012 Vouvray Sec ‘Les Aumones’ (Le Capitaine)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
Machmer Gewürztraminer Spätlese 2012 wasn’t an easy vintage in Vouvray and the news of 2013 is drastically worse. Hail earlier this year devastated the region. In 2012, Vouvray producers were able to make small quantities of very fine sec, demi-sec, and sparkling wines. From Le Capitaine we opted for the Sec because it had the good weight of Vouvray with the signature soft, chalky aromas along with lively, honey-kissed, pear-like fruit, all contained in a dry fashion.

Greco in Campania
2012 Greco ‘Mastro’ (Mastroberardino)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Muga Rioja Campania has long been home to many great white grapes. Certainly Greco, which also goes by the name Greco di Tufo, has Greek origins, giving it a millennium or two of history. The Mastroberardino family has long been one of the quality leaders in the region, but they have lately begun a value line titled Mastro. This fresh Greco has a wonderfully rich entry with flower-blossom aromas and apricot fruit suspended in a nicely viscous body. The finish is lightly peppery and dry. This wonderfully complex grape has survived for ages; now we can enjoy it as a terrific modern value. Try with a grilled swordfish augmented with capers and lemon.

Riesling vom Kalk
2012 Niersteiner Paterberg Riesling Trocken (Schneider)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Petit Bourgeois Rosé Vom Kalk means “from Limestone,” and with this wine the Schneiders offer a fascinating example of a dry Riesling grown in a specific terroir. This 2012 has more body than you expect from the usually sleek Rieslings of Germany. Instead it carries a weighted apple-compote fruit, at once rich yet zesty, with an earthy finish. Here’s a wine that will prove that spicy cuisine doesn’t necessarily require fruity wines. Start with a Thai curry and move on to a vindaloo.

Vouvray Pétillant
Dr Heyden Silvaner Trocken 2010 Vouvray Péetillant (Chidaine)
Sale Price 19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
After Champagne, our favorite French sparkling wines come from Vouvray. The wonderful character of Chenin Blanc is vibrantly present in its bubbly manifestation. Chidaine’s 2010 Pétillant is non-dose, meaning that no additional sugar has been added. This is bracingly dry with a cool wave of fizziness through the elegantly wrought, lively flavors. Try this with lobster and other rich shellfish.

Listed prices are honored through August 14th. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 37, No. 8

Chillin’ Reds
Legally we are not allowed to advertise a wine’s merits based on its alcohol level, though we know that most customers know what they are getting when they purchase an Amarone or a Chateauneuf-du-Pape. During the summer we recommend chilling red wines to bring out their fresh fruit character. In these three reds the lower alcohol content (12.5%) leads to cool refreshment without a rush to the head.

Refosco…
2011 Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso (Villa Locatelli)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Château Chantegrive This red from Friuli is a cherry-fruited, floral, aromatic delight. Refosco has family ties with Lagrein, Teroldego, and Marzemino, making it a Northern Italian/Slovenian grape that hasn’t left its original turf. Try with a mushroom risotto and bitter greens.

Saint Magdalener Returns
2012 Saint Magdalener (Colterenzio)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Serol Cote Roannaise Les Vieilles Vignes This marks two vintages in a row that we have enjoyed this charming red from Alto Adige. Colterenzio’s Saint Magdalener is a blend of the delicate Schiava (90%) with a dollop of beefy Lagrein. This has lovely berry fruit, a light kernel of almond flavor, and a charming bitter finish.

Loire Valley Pinot Noir
2011 Menetou-Salon Rouge ‘Le Prieuré des Aublats’ (Henri Bourgeois)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Serol Cote Roannaise Les Vieilles Vignes This marks two vintages in a row that we have enjoyed this charming red from Alto Adige. Colterenzio’s Saint Magdalener is a blend of the delicate Schiava (90%) with a dollop of beefy Lagrein. This has lovely berry fruit, a light kernel of almond flavor, and a charming bitter finish.

Mad For Sicily
A few years ago Sicily was the land of cheap and cheerful red wines based on Nero d’Avola and that it continues to fit this description is evidenced by the Regaleali below. Yet in the island’s higher altitudes old vines of indigenous varieties lay awaiting interested producers. Audacious Arianna Occhipinti may be the world’s best winemaker under the age of thirty.

Regaleali
Vintilde;a Ardanza Rioja Reserva 2010 Sicilia Rosso (Regaleali)
Sale Price $9.99 – $101.90 case of twelve
Here’s where Sicily began its introduction to the export market with hearty, flavorful red wine. The Nero d’Avola from Regaleali is dark and peppery, a fine earthy dry red with subtle tannins. This is an exceptional ten dollar red.

Occhipinti
2012 Terre Siciliane Bianco ‘SP68’ (Occhipinti)
Sale Price $27.99 – $285.49 case of twelve
Le Grand St Vincent Touraine Sauvignon In a just a few vintages Arianna Occhipinti has shot to the top of the list of Sicily’s finest winemakers. We first featured her Tami Frappato, a bistro wine extraordinaire. Between that value red and her old vine Frappato, she has a pair of wines labeled ‘SP68’ for their vineyard location. The Bianco is a stunning and wonderful surprise. This is a mix of mostly Albanello and Moscato di Alessandria, and it tastes like a flower-bearing rock. Try this with a smoky grilled swordfish steak.
Le Grand St Vincent Touraine Sauvignon 2012 Terre Siciliane Rosso ‘SP68’ (Occhipinti)
Sale Price $27.99 – $285.49 case of twelve
The red ‘SP68’ is a gorgeous, pure, aromatic delight. Wild berries and cracked pepper permeate this lively wine. Try this with a grilled boneless leg of lamb stuffed with herbs and brushed with a mixture of lemon and olive oil.

Syrah Rosé
2012 Syrah Rosé (Saint Peyre)
Sale Price $8.99 – $91.70 case of twelve
Orliac Le Loup Bergerie This Rosé comes from the folks who produce the immensely popular Picpoul de Pinet and Montalus whites. If you like your Rosé a bit on the fruity, off-dry side then this is for you.

Bandol Rosé
2012 Bandol Rosé (La Bastide Blanche)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
Château Cambis Côtes du Rhone Until we tasted this wine a few vintages ago we thought that Bandol Rosé was just a trendy, overpriced, yet admittedly often delicious Rosé. The version from La Bastide Blanche showed us that there is a tipping point at which Bandol Rosé becomes so delicious that its price makes sense. The 2012 is again an amazing Rosé. It is spicy, earthy, and very dry. Perfect for a salade nicoise made of the freshest tuna, new-laid eggs, and the thinnest haricot verts your servants can forage.

Perles Grises
2012 Perles Grises (Patrice Colin)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Puisseguin Saint-Emilion (Château Côtes de Saint Clair With Perles Grises we bid adieu to Patrice Colin’s Rosé (and Gris) for the season. Without revealing it on the front label, this is a dry Sparkling Pineau d’Aunis from the Coteaux du Vendômois. The Colins have produced several outstanding 2012s including their Pierre á Feu Chenin Blanc and their Gris and Gris Bodin, but the Perles Grises is their most festive offering. This is fizzy and peppery with dry strawberry fruit and a clean, lively finish.

Lost and Found
Our basement has many cozy nooks in which to store (and sometimes lose) wine, but the occasional inventory always reminds us of some of our overenthusiastic purchases. These fine wines are in their prime drinking range – and now we’ve made them much more affordable.

Les Poyeux Saumur Champigny 2010 Montsant ‘Viñas Viejas’ (Finca El Romero)
Sale Price $19.99 – Closeout Price $14.99
Old vine Carignan is usually found in Languedoc, but this denominacio Montsant is Catalan Spanish. This generous, hearty red requires a couple of hours of breathing to reveal its wildly amazing depth of flavor.

2010 Vino Rosso ‘Maggiorina’ (Le Piane)
Sale Price $16.99 – Closeout Price $13.99
Qupe Maxtrap Cuvée Maggiorina is a Nebbiolo-based red from Northern Piedmont. This 2010 got lost in our inventory when we went crazy for every Nebbiolo d’Alba and Langhe blend that came our way. Le Piane’s wines are always elegant and aromatic. Try this with a grilled chicken with a spicy coleslaw.

White Birch Berliner Weisse 2010 Rosso di Montalcino (Il Poggione)
Sale Price $24.99 – Closeout Price $19.99
Il Poggione is an ultra-traditional producer of Brunello di Montalcino whose wines are capable of aging for thirty years. Their Rosso is truly a baby-Brunello, with gorgeous aromas and ripe tannins. This 2010 is a ready-to-drink Montalcino wonder.

2010 Rosso di Montalcino (Siro Pacenti)
Sale Price $29.99 – Closeout Price $24.99
White Birch Berliner Weisse Pacenti is also a master when it comes to Rosso di Montalcino. His wine is a riper, smoother modern Montalcino that is packed with fruit – except the fruit is back-loaded with evolving aromatics of smoke and savory minerals.

Wines of the Month — July 15, 2013 through August 14, 2013

2012 Garnatxa Negra ‘Altés’ (Herencia)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
Castelo do Sulco Garnatxa Negra is the Catalan name for Grenache and this is an incredible steal in the Mediterranean red category. The 2012 Altés is ripe and round with ripe plum fruit and a rich long finish.

La Haudinière Muscadet Sèvre et Maine 2012 Tempranillo (Venta Morales)
Sale Price $6.99 – $75.49 case of twelve
Venta Morales is a Tempranillo from La Mancha with fine tannins and an earthy, dry finish. Very Spanish and very fine with grilled lamb.

Le Montalus 2012 Côtes de Gascogne (Domaine de Millet)
Sale Price $7.99 – $86.29 case of twelve
The 2012 Gascogne Blanc blend of Colombard and Ugni Blanc is a fresh and lively and altogether versatile dry white. Perfect for summer salads and chilled dinners with smoked fish.

Finca La Linda Malbec 2012 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine ‘St. Vincent’ (Delhommeau)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
This is an unbeatable Muscadet for the price. The 2012 St. Vincent from Delhommeau is a fine dry white that is perfect for grilled fish and clams or a cold chicken salad on a hot summer evening.

Newsletter

Wines of the Month — July 15, 2013 through August 14, 2013