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June 15, 2008 - July 14, 2008 |
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Two fifty-fifties from Spain White… *2007 Yecla ‘Macabeo- Chardonnay’ (Castaño), Sale Price $7.99 -- $81.50 case of twelve;
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…and Red *2006 Vinos de Madrid ‘Tempranillo-Garnacha (Zestos), Sale Price $8.99 -- $91.70 case of twelve;
Summering in Saumur-ville *2005 Saumur Rouge (Cave de Saumur), Sale Price $9.99 -- $101.90 case of twelve;
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“Do not plant any tree before the sacred vine” Horace, 10A.D. *2004 Aglianico ‘Sacravite’ (d’Angelo), Sale Price $9.99 -- $101.90 case of twelve;
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A Mixed Portuguese Grill *2006 Dao (Grilos), Sale Price $9.99 -- $101.90 case of twelve;
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Mont Ventoux *2005 Cotes du Ventoux ‘Terrasses’ (Chateau Pesquié), Sale Price $11.99 -- $122.30 case of twelve;
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Isola di Insolia *2007 Insolia (Cusumano), Sale Price $11.99 -- $122.30 case of twelve;
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Fresh Chilled Red *2006 Bardolino ‘La Corte del Pozzo’ (Fasoli Gino), Sale Price $14.99 -- $152.90 case of twelve;
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The Year of the Snail *2006 Bourgogne Blanc (Merlin), Sale Price $17.99 -- $183.50 case of twelve; *2006 Bourgogne Rouge (Merlin), Sale Price $19.99 -- $203.90 case of twelve;
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Barolo *2004 Barolo (Giacomo Grimaldi), Sale Price $44.99 -- $458.90 case of twelve;  After a slew of excellent vintages in Piedmont we find it hard to believe that the 2004 for Barolo and Barbaresco are the best yet. All we have tasted so far point to wines of superb concentration, ripe tannins, and gorgeous earthy finishes. Grimaldi has fashioned a candidate for early drinking. Serve now with an Osso Buco and save some for later with a Robiola or Gorgonzola. Or it will easily keep for another five to ten years. |
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Twenty years ago a Spanish white was nutty, slightly oxidized, and careening in the direction of Sherry. The nineties was a good time to be a salesman with a stainless steel fermentation company in Spain, because the market needed steel tanks. Today we expect vibrant, graceful, crisp whites from all over Spain, even in a hot, dry climate like Yecla. Castaño’s 2007 is an equal parts blend of Macabeo (a.k.a. Viura) and Chardonnay. The finished wine has lime and honey aromas and a crisp refreshing palate and finish. Great for fish cakes and salsa. 
Just to the southeast of Madrid lies an improbable suburb of vines that has long supplied the capital’s cafés and bars with daily plonk. As Spanish wine has improved so have the wines from the D.O. Vinos de Madrid. When the Spanish trade commission brought some winemakers to Boston we were favorably impressed with the softness and richness of the reds. This Zestos is a food-friendly blend of Tempranillo and Garnacha. Fruity and smoky, herbal and structured, this not-too-heavy red is perfect with a slight chill and grilled food. 
The Cave de Saumur does a great job with the two best grapes of the Loire, Chenin Blanc for white and Cabernet Franc for red. How this Cab Franc from the great 2005 vintage remains only $9.99 is an economic mystery that we don’t care to solve. Give this gripping yet easygoing red a slight chill and you’ll find it goes well with almost everything. 
Sacred vine indeed. The Aglianico, whose name scholars believe derives from ellenico (“Hellenic”), is a red grape of ancient Greek origin. This grape has been grown in Basilicata since the 6 th or 7 th century BC, or more than 2600 years. Modern scholars and tasters of Italian wine consider Aglianico one of the three best red grapes of Italy along with Nebbiolo and Sangiovese. Lately we’ve been fortunate to find reasonably priced, ready-to-drink versions of each of these varieties, yet this red from d’Angelo might be the best value yet. The 2004 Sacravite is fully dry with hints of dark plummy fruit and a rich earthy finish. This will match well with a grilled butterflied leg of lamb, as well as with hot-pepper-spiced pasta sauces.
While we adore Portuguese wines, the mix of grapes leaves us grasping for consistent descriptors. For instance the recommended red grapes for the Dão region are Alfrocheiro Preto, Alvarelhão, Tinta Roriz, Bastardo, Jaen, Rufete, Tinto Cão, Touriga Nacional and Trincadeira Preta. Only a vine specialist and experienced winemaker could properly explain what each grape brings to the table. We do know that the Dão region is not geologically diverse. It is mostly granite. This can lead to wines with crisp acidity and long finishes. One significant recent change in Portuguese winemaking is that producers are more apt to remove the grapes from the stems before pressing, to gain fruitiness and avoid excess tannins. Another is the use of newer oak barrels to infuse some roundness into the finished wine. Taking all this into consideration and after tasting this Dão from Grilos, we conclude that the winemaking team made many correct decisions to deliver a delicious ten-dollar wine. This smoky, fruity red with nice structure awaits your next BBQ.
Mont Ventoux is one of Provence’s significant natural landmarks. It is often climbed and cycled, and its slopes are covered with vines. Our favorite red Ventoux is made by Chateau Pesquié. We like its graceful delicacy of fruit and its floral, herbal aromas. The 2005 drinks beautifully right now. The blend is 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah. 
Goethe sang the praises of Sicily as the land that produced everything, which may be why the island has had so many conquerors. Although it’s hugely productive of wine, the idea of DOC or IGT quality is a recent concept. Cusumano is a large and well-managed estate that delivers exceptional value. The 2007 IGT ( Indicazione Geografica Tipica) Insolia from the grape of the same name is a gorgeous white with scents and flavors of peaches, citrus, and almonds. This is a beautiful wine for grilled fish with lemon zest-infused risotto.
Bardolino is a favorite summer red. These light beauties perfectly complement the concept of antipasto, a series of chilled appetizers passed around the table. This organic Bardolino from Fasoli Gino is a wonderful match with sliced meats like mortadella and prosciutto, grilled and chilled vegetables, and poached salmon. This one has lovely cherry-scented fruit with a zesty brisk finish. Here simplicity is delicious.
Olivier Merlin usually provides us with the delightful Macon La Roche Vineuse, but in the 2006 vintage we fell for his ‘snail label’ Burgundies. Merlin has always believed that white Burgundy should be raised in oak barrels and this version proves his point. The Chardonnay is deft in its balance of buttery vanilla oak with aromas of bread and flavors of crisp apples 
and pears. This wonderfully lush white will match with richer fishes like halibut and sea bass, or with a couple of smoked, grilled Cornish hens. Interestingly enough there is no obvious oak flavor in his 2006 red. This Pinot Noir is actually a little lighter than the Chardonnay, but it is impeccably balanced and full of graceful strawberry and cherry fruit. A fine match with grilled salmon or some spicy chicken thighs.