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June 15, 2009 - July 14, 2009 |
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‘O7 Southern Rhone *2007 Cotes du Rhone (Clos Chanteduc), Sale Price $13.99 -- $142.70 case of twelve;
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Pic Saint Loup *2007 Coteaux du Languedoc ‘Pic Saint Loup’ (L’Hortus), Sale Price $14.99 -- $152.90 case of twelve;
Pretty in Pinot *2007 Carneros Pinot Noir ‘Annabella’ (Michael Pozzan), Sale Price $14.99 -- $152.90 case of twelve; In California’s seminal years Cabernet Sauvignon was not only king, but winemakers treated every red grape variety as if it were Cabernet, expecting the same success. It took a while to realize that Pinot Noir needed gentler handling and that it wasn’t going to be as big or age-worthy as Cabernet. Cooler climates were planted, the right vines were imported, and California Pinot Noir became much more interesting. The planting of the Carneros region helped immensely. This former sheep pasture with the cooling influence of San Pablo Bay and the Pacific Ocean has made Pinot Noir of delicacy and balance an affordable option. The 2007 Annabella has subtle oak, cherry fruit with firm structure, and a gentle finish. A great red for roast chicken and grilled salmon. |
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Saumur Champion *2006 Saumur-Champigny (Les Villaises), Sale Price $14.99 -- $152.90 case of twelve;  A few years back a New York retailer named Willy Gluckstern wrote a manifesto called The Wine Avenger in which he declared that the best red wine in the world for food was Saumur-Champigny. At the time we agreed, but finding a steady supply of Saumur-Champigny wasn’t easy. The region is a small red-only sub region of the greater region of Saumur, plus this Cabernet Franc is a the popular bistro red extraordinaire in Paris. We have been fortunate that our visits to the Loire have illuminated and expanded our red Loire selection. Our last visit yielded the 2006 Les Villaises, a gorgeous midweight Cabernet Franc with strawberry aromas and dusty dry tannins. With a slight chill this is a near perfect summer red for all kinds of fare. A great red for seafood and one of the few we would recommend for shellfish. |
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Fred’s Red, Lois is White *2007 Zweigelt ‘Fred’ (Loimer), Sale Price $13.99 -- $142.70 case of twelve;
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Typical Tuscany *2007 Toscana ‘Ripa delle Mandorle’ (Vicchiomaggio), Sale Price $13.99 -- $142.70 case of twelve;
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Guido’s House Red *2007 Barbera d’Alba (Guidobono), Sale Price $9.99 -- $101.90 case of twelve; In a way that we never imagined the wines of Piedmont have become an extremely affordable luxury. Dolcetto is a great favorite, Nebbiolo continues to excite at increasingly lower prices, and then there is Barbera, the briary , raspberry raspberry-scented ruby red that was born to adorn with grilled foods and tomato-based pasta sauces. The 2007 Guidobono defies its price category with deep fruit and a gentle bite of crispness. Try with a spicy tomato sauce and broccoli rabe. |
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Wildly Santenay *2007 Santenay ‘Vieilles Vignes’ (Paul Pillot), Sale Price $34.99 -- $356.90 case of twelve;
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Rosé Has Been Saved There was much harrumphing and ooh-la-la-ing in the European Community over how Rosé could be produced. The pink pooh-bas of Provence prevailed by convincing the jury that the art of Rosé would be compromised if producers were allowed to simply mix white wine with red wine. You may rest assured that Rosé is made by gently pressing the red grapes and fermenting the juice to satisfying dryness. Summer has been rescued. *2008 Malbec Rosé (Los Cardos), Sale Price $7.99 -- $81.50 case of twelve; This was good last year and it’s good again. Los Cardos makes one delicious, meaty, spicy, dry Malbec rosé. *2008 Somantano Rosado ‘Montesierra’(Bodega Pirineos), Sale Price $7.99 -- $81.50 case of twelve; This wonderful surprise is a mix of Garnacha and Tempranillo from the foothills of the Pyrenees. On a scale of dry, it’s very dry. *2008 Beaujolais-Villages Rosé ‘Rosez’ (Jean-Marc Burgaud), Sale Price $11.99 -- $122.30 case of twelve; Rosez is fun stuff. This pink Gamay has flavors of juicy watermelon, mint, and black pepper. *2008 Cotes de Provence Rosé (Moutete), Sale Price $11.99 -- $122.30 case of twelve; Last month we wrote that,“Year in and year out Moutete is our favorite ‘apres plage’ Provencale rosé .” Sadly, the boat got lost. Now it has arrived. To reward your patience it the wine is now two dollars cheaper. It’s safe to go back to the beach .
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Clos Chanteduc is the vineyard of Patricia and Walter Wells, talented expatriates who have long entertained and informed Americans abroad with their work for the International Herald Tribune, Walter as the editor and Patricia as the food critic. Along the way Patricia wrote has written several wonderful books on French food including the classic Bistro Cooking. Their successes le a d to culminated in a hilltop paradise in Provence, the Clos Chanteduc, where they installed a cooking school and restored an old vineyard. Lucky them: they have their own Cotes-du-Rhone! Yes, we’re just a little jealous, but we have to admit that their vineyard guy and winemaker Yves Gras nailed the 2007 vintage. This is as good as most Gigondas. Fantastic with a grilled butterflied leg of lamb with garlic and rosemary.
Pic Saint Loup is a gorgeous slanted mountain that pokes out of the garrigue of the Languedoc. It also gives its name to the great Cru of the region. A Pic Saint Loup is a super Languedoc with a scented power and a graceful deep and dark fruit. The 2007 is an incredible example of the region at an excellent price.
Fred Loimer makes an excellent Gruner Veltliner that he labels ”Lois ” ( maybe the name of his wife or daughter ). Now we have his red Zweigelt, which he has named ”Fred,” after either himself or his son. This may be the Saumur-Champigny of Austria because it has the proper weight and balance for summer foods. It is delicately fruity, but also spicy, zesty and dry. While we love this with a good schnitzel, it will also be good with a trout and a potato salad. 
What is typically Tuscan? For us it is a carafe of cool Sangiovese served with simply prepared, ultra ultra-fresh food. An antipasti of roasted peppers and marinated artichokes followed by a cold seafood salad with shrimp and calamari and finalmente an arrosta, the delicious rosemary pork roast typical of Tuscany. For wine, try this tipica Toscano uncomplicated red from the Chianti Classico estate of Vichiomaggio, with an aged pecorino cheese.
The red Burgundy Santenay is described by the French as ”sauvage, ” which means “wild ,” and signifies to us that Santenay has a wonderful aroma of field and forest. The 2007 from Paul Pillot was one of the best affordable Burgundies we tasted on our last jaunt through the region. This wine exceeded many more expensive Pinot Noirs that we tasted, and back here in the States it tingles with delicious spice, decadent ripe fruit, and a dry earthy finish. Pricey yes, but this is what true Cote de Beaune Burgundy should taste like.