February 15, 2010 - March 14, 2010



 

King of the Rhone

*2006 Cotes du Rhone (Guigal)

Sale Price $11.99 -- $122.30 case of twelve;

We’ve probably used the headline above a dozen times, but it most fittingly refers to the Guigal clan. They are the first family of Ampuis, the capital of Cote-Rotie. To taste a mature Guigal Cote-Rotie is pinnacle of wine-drinking experience. Fortunately they dabble in affordability by buying up grapes all over the Rhone Valley to make a consistently wonderful Cotes du Rhone. Because their base is in the Northern Rhone Guigal likes more Syrah in the blend -- usually about 50% -- leading to a red of more elegant tannins and smooth rich fruit. Their Cotes du Rhone has proven to age as well. Though delicious now it would not be outlandish to lay some of this away for a couple of years for more aromatic and mellow results.

 

 

 

Newly Minty Cabernet

*2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Villa des Anges)

Sale Price $9.99 -- $101.90 case of twelve;

This Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from limestone soil vineyards in the Languedoc and we love its explosive aromatics. It abounds with concentrated black fruit finessed with a streak of mint and earth. Try this with a skirt steak dusted with various peppers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Verdejo Manchuela

*2008 Verdejo (Paso a Paso)

Sale Price $8.99 -- $91.70 case of twelve;

After the Verdejo grape was successfully resurrected in Rueda a group of investors went looking for an ideal location for the grape in La Mancha. They settled on a fascinating site nearly two thousand feet above sea level with sandy soils supported by large river stones with iron, clay, and chalk. They planted vines in 1998. We have continually enjoyed the last few vintages as they appear to get better and better, while the price remains remarkably reasonable. The 2008 is a starts out fruity and sun-soaked, then leads to minerals and crispness. The finish is soft and round, long and plump. All delightfully unoaked and wonderful with spicy shrimp.

 

 

 

 

Monsieur Muscadet

*2009 Muscadet Sevre et Maine (Domaine de la Pepiere)

Sale Price $9.99 -- $101.90 case of twelve;

Once a year one of us gets to see and taste with Marc Ollivier, and it’s always a delight. This modest man is one of the most talented winemakers we have ever met. He invariably gets the most out of a vintage even in the most challenging conditions. The 2007 and 2008 weren’t the stuff of legend in the Pays Nantais, but the Pepiere wines were lovely nonetheless. The 2009 vintage has the effect of a reward after the previous two. Reports are that there is both quality and quantity. Our first taste of the 2009 confirmed this. It is a classic Pepiere, aromatic, crisp, dry and long. To us this is the best white wine value in the world. Don’t wait until oysters fall from the sky to try it.

 

 

 

Get to Know Chenin Blanc

*2007 Vouvray (Les Aumones/Le Capitaine),

Sale Price $13.99 -- $142.70 case of twelve;

*2005 Savennieres (Baumard),

Sale Price $24.99 -- $254.90 case of twelve;

*2005 Savennières ‘Clos du Papillon’ (Baumard),

Sale Price $34.99 -- $356.90 case of twelve;

*2002 Vouvray Petillant (Huet),

Sale Price $34.99 -- $356.90 case of twelve;

Chenin Blanc may be too good for its own good. Here is a grape that excels on the infrequent occasions when it is made dry, is vastly popular when made into demi-sec, enjoyed immensely when made sparkling, and produces some of the greatest sweet wines in wine history. We’ll start where most people start with Chenin Blanc, in Vouvray. The villages that make up the appellation of Vouvray are loaded with caves cut into the riverbanks of soft chalk, with the vineyards on top. The caves are perfect for making and storing wine, and the terroir is ideal for flavorful Chenin Blanc. The 2007 from Les Aumones is a broadly flavored, textured delight, with honeyed fruit and an earthy, chalky finish. This is everything Vouvray and will drink well for several more years. We adore the wines of the Baumard family. Interestingly they release their sweet Layon wines before their dry Savennières. They reason that if you open their Coteaux du Layon at any age you’ll get a delicious sweet wine, but if you open a dry Savennières too young it will be severe and backward. We’ve been happily following the 2005 and it is now starting to sing. It is a wine of strong personality, fruity at first, then revealing a tensile strength of stones and steel. The flavors are so focused and intense that there is a pleasant sting to the palate. What a fascinating wine. The 2005 Clos du Papillon is for those with deep cellars. This wine needs another five years to achieve golden perfection. Personally, we’d take this over Montrachet.

Lastly we have a new release of the 2002 Vouvray Petillant from Huet, a megastar of the Loire. None of Huet’s wines should be drunk young, but this sparkler comes to the market with some age. This was disgorged and given its final dosage in 2009 so it has mature notes of toffee and chalk albeit in a fascinating dry fashion. This is a fabulous wine for a cheese plate at the end of a scrumptious celebratory meal.

 

 

 

 

Grand Shiraz

*2008 Shiraz (Marquis Philips),

Sale Price $12.99 -- $132.50 case of twelve;

Australian wine is going through some tough times as too many inexpensive brands have slammed onto the market at once, resulting in a glut. This has dragged down the price of some of the quality labels as well. We were pleased to taste the classic quality of the Marquis Philips collaboration when it was priced at $17.99. The pleasure only grows now that it’s available to sell at $12.99 before discount. The full-bodied plummy fruit is balanced with a hint of tannin and a twist of black pepper.

 

 

 

Petite Sirah

*2007 Petite Sirah (Parducci),

Sale Price $9.99 -- $101.90 case of twelve;

There is nothing Petite about Petite Sirah. It’s one of California’s most generous and affordable reds. The 2007 from Parducci in Mendocino County is a driven red with rich fruit, soft ripe tannins, and a spicy finish. Get out the grill -- oops its February. Get out the slow cooker and braise that brisket.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

 
 
 
 
Vol.27, No10.  
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