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Formidable French Whites Classic French whites set the world standard for dry elegance. These six offerings have the intense, earthbound, sugar-free qualities that result in great pairings with the foods of summer.
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Touraine Sauvignon *2008 Touraine Sauvignon (Les Roches), Sale Price $9.99 – $101.90 case of twelve;
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Saumur Chenin *2008 Saumur ‘Les Epinats’ (Cave de Saumur), Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve;
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Aligoté ou Kir *2007 Bourgogne Aligoté (Paul Pillot), Sale Price $15.99 -- $163.10 case of twelve;
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Sancerre Sauvignon *2008 Sancerre (Domaine La Rossignole), Sale Price $19.99 -- $203.90 case of twelve;
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Chablis Chardonnay *2007 Chablis (Domaine Gueguen), Sale Price $19.99 -- $203.90 case of twelve;
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Vol.27, No10. |
page 2
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The Touraine is home to some of the Loire Valley’s best bargains. The Les Roches Sauvignon Blanc is crisp and dry with the slightest hint of fruit. Perfect with salads and chevre.
Chenin Blanc is one of the most underrated white grape varieties. Its versatility can be a source of confusion. Here we have a ripe and thoroughly dry version from the Cave de Saumur. Les Epinats is a vineyard site with chalk and quartz, which delivers finesse and length while the Chenin Blanc contributes crunchy white fruits and a zesty finish. A delight with cold poached salmon with dill and new potatoes.
Aligoté is the other white Burgundy, the one that is not Chardonnay. Aligoté is planted on marginal sites around the Cotes de Beaune. On the Hautes Cotes or higher elevations of Beaune one sees patches of vines and groves of blackcurrants, another cash crop. It should come as no surprise that the two are intermingled in the cocktail Kir; a glass of white wine with a splash of Crème de Cassis. Paul Pillot is a producer of Chassagne Montrachet who persists in making a delectable Aligoté that is delicious with or without the Cassis.
Sancerre is by a wide margin our favorite Sauvignon Blanc. It was once the great white bargain; now it’s something of a rare treat. We found this new producer at the Loire Valley trade show in February. For $19.99 it is both a treat and a value.
Chablis and Sancerre are close cousins. They both inhabit chalky limestone soils and both lie in the northern zone for viticulture. But they don’t share grapes: Sancerre is Sauvignon Blanc and Chablis is Chardonnay. Not just any Chardonnay, but Chardonnay with angles and, in the right hands and vintage, unexpected concentration. 2007 was a long growing season that allowed a fine ripe elegance in Chablis. The Domaine Gueguen is perfectly ripe and dry with a striking undertow of earth and minerals. Some would say it’s too rich for oysters, but hey what the shuck?