Fun French Reds

Here we have six terrific French reds representing classic wine regions. We’ve covered the Rhone and both sides of Bordeaux, and discovered a superb Beaujolais Cru, a Cote de Beaune Burgundy, and a resurrected Cahors. All await the wonderful braised dishes of winter along with hearty cheese and crusty bread.

Ventoux

*2010 Ventoux (Domaine Font Sarade),

Sale Price $14.99 -- $152.90 case of twelve;

Wines from the Cotes du Ventoux now go by the single name of the imposing Mont -- Ventoux. We had yet to detect a difference until we tasted this smooth, rich 2010 from Domaine Font Sarade. This is more refined than rustic and has a ripe, earthy core of plummy fruit, with some herbal subtleties. A surprising amount of Syrah (60%) may be the reason for this, or maybe it’s the Grenache.

Bourg

*2009 Cotes de Bourg (Chateau La Grolet),

Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve;

The Cotes de Bourg is on the right bank of Bordeaux but just a stone’s throw across the Garonne from the Medoc. This is the Merlot side of the river, and Chateau La Grolet exploits this with ripe round wines made following biodynamique practices. The 2009 is excellent, with vibrant, ripe cherry fruit, a striking earthiness, and fine tannins.

Cahors

*2009 Cahors ‘Cuvée Maurin’ (Domaine la Berangeraie),

Sale Price $17.99 -- $183.50 case of twelve;

During the Middle Ages, before Bordeaux became the export leader, barrels of the ‘black’ wine of Cahors were shipped down the Lot River to be exported abroad. After a blockade and a couple of wars, the golden age of Cahors was over, but wine made from Malbec continued to be produced, albeit in reduced quantities. The popularity of Malbec in Argentina has renewed interest in Cahors, as many consumers are curious about the original Malbec. Domaine la Berangeraie seems to have taken an interest in resurrecting the original ‘black’ wine of Cahors. They are also organic, harvest by hand, and believe in natural fermentation. This 2009 is stunning in its dark color, impressive tannins, and endless finish. The black wine of Cahors is back. Especially good with cassoulet.

Haut-Medoc

*2009 Haut-Medoc (Chateau de Sainte Gemme),

Sale Price $19.99 -- $203.90 case of twelve;

The Haut-Medoc is the younger region of Bordeaux, and the vineyards of Chateau de Sainte Gemme date from the early 1970’s, when producers in the Medoc realized that they needed the earlier ripening Merlot as much as they did their later harvested Cabernet Sauvignon. Hence the Sainte Gemme vineyards are planted in equal quantities of the two great Bordeaux grapes. In 2009 both ripened exceptionally well, producing a classic modern Haut-Medoc with elegant fruit, ripe tannins, and firm structure. This drinks well right now and will age and improve for another five years.

Fleurie

*2010 Fleurie ‘Cuvee Tardive’ (Clos de la Roilette),

Sale Price $24.99 -- $254.90 case of twelve;

Clos de la Roilette produces some of the best Cru Beaujolais you can find. Their regular bottling is gorgeously fruity and earthy, and the 2009 which we still stock is amazing right now. Their longer lived Super-Cru labeled ‘Cuvée Tardive’ is harder to come by and worth some patience. 2010 is a firmly structured wine that is deep and divine.

Monthelie

*2009 Monthelie (Thierry et Pascal Matrot),

Sale Price $39.99 -- $407.90 case of twelve;

The Matrot’s bread and butter is Meursault, but they are continually improving their red wines, and this 2009 Monthelie represents a real breakthrough. The best vineyards in Monthelie are an extension of those of Volnay. In 2009 the Pinot Noir was so soft, full, and ripe that 15% of Pinot Beurot (a.k.a. Pinot Gris) was included to add aroma and balance. Ripe wild raspberries merge with smoky, flinty flavors to form an intriguing rich, red Burgundy. One of our absolute favorites with duck.

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Vol.27, No10.